10mm, 13mm, 17mm, T25 and M12… The Bits That Saved VAG – 07.23.013

“Wheres your car at?”
“Its over here… And over here. Some of its over there. And the rest is on that shelf over there”
“…”

Motors out and sitting next to its replacement, so its time to start swapping things over. A crucial part of this is ensuring everything swaps over correctly.  Its basically a big Erector set.  Some/most pieces only go in certain places so it acts as its own saving grace.  But to keep it entirely remedial and error-proof, I would start to swap a hose or a bracket over one by one.  I’ve likely over-thought the whole process for fear of only wanting to pull the motor, once.  In any case, I started to move things over between yesterday and today.

I started with a couple coolant hoses and then started to remove the old intake manifold from the old motor and the old exhaust manifold from the new motor, as I will be swapping the stock header out for the Eurojet header.  Being that it was a bit of low-priority to move the exhaust header, I just loosened all but 5 nuts.  I was fortunate to get the Intake manifold off, even still with an abnormally long 6mm allen bit needed to reach one bolt.  With that off, I was able to pull the fuel rail, injectors and fuel lines in one fell swoop.  I taped up the ports on both the head and the manifold to prevent any dirt or dust contamination.  Before doing so, I took a few shots of each of the valves in each cylinder port.  The upside to non-direct injection is clean valves at 102,000 miles.

I also pulled the coilpacks from the new motor as they only have 22,xxx miles on them.  They look brand new, as they should.  From there, I continued on and removed the belts and started pulling the tensioners, AC and Alternator (which would prove to be a complete pain in the ass).  At first glance, the belts looked fine, so I simply noted their direction and set them aside as I have new belts ready to go on.  Now even though, the new lump only has 22,xxx miles on it, I gave myself piece of mind in replacing the water pump and thermostat.  The water pump was pretty easy, though as anticipated, coolant spewed out.  Luckily I was ready with a catch basin ready, as well as a towel.  Then I moved onto the thermostat which was fairly easy after I figured it needed a bit of muscle wiggling to get it free from the water pump side.  Thereafter, I installed the bracket that held the tensioners and alternator/AC condenser.  The A/C condenser required that the engine be titled a bit in order to mount properly, as it sits fairly low.  So while holding the block at an angle with one arm, I was able to get the 3 bolts in to affix it to the bracket.  From there, I moved on to the Alternator.  I found that it fits so incredibly snug in its mount that I had to ‘persuade’ it into place with a rubber mallet.  It took a bit of diligence, but I managed to get it in.

From that point I start moving a few smaller things, here and there, which is now where I’m starting to see the subtle differences in each block.  Which puzzled me, as there is a sensor on the BGP block above the oil filter housing (oil temp / oil lever sensor??) but it looks to not be present on the CBTA block.  Also I noticed 2 extra sensors on the CBTA block, which will be referenced below.

At this point, I have a few more things to swap over, but am making decent time.  The next big project is unbolting each transmission from their respective engine and swapping in my manual transmission tot he new mule… As well as, install the new clutch kit.

 

241

 

242

 

243

 

244

 

245

 

246Starting

 

247

 

248Coilpacks on the newer motor looking prisitine

 

249Intake manifold out (patiently waiting for the Integrated Engineering intake manifold to come!)

 

250Cylinder 1

 

251Cylinder 2

 

252Cylinder 3

 

253Cylinder 4

 

254Cylinder 5

 

255Intake manifold off

 

256Starting to remove belts

 

257

 

258

 

259Had to remove one of the tensioners to get to one of the alternator mounting bolts

 

260Alternator out

 

261

 

262

 

263

 

264

 

265

 

266

 

267

 

268

 

269

 

270

 

271Tensioner pulleys look okay for now.  But on the list for future replacment

 

272

 

273Old water pump before it gets removed

 

274New water pump, new thermostat, and transferred dipstick, along with some piping.

 

275Picking away at the old one

 

276Sensor on the BGP

 

277Unthreaded port where the sensor WOULD be on the CBTA

 

2782 Additional sensors found on the CBTA that are NOT on the BGP, residing next to the oil cooler/oil filter housing.

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2 thoughts on “10mm, 13mm, 17mm, T25 and M12… The Bits That Saved VAG – 07.23.013

  1. Hey, I’m doing a similar swap but adding on a TTRS cylinder head. I’m facing the same sensor issue as you did. CBTA block also contains a oil control valve that is mounted further down below the brown sensor. How did you resolve it, running with a new ECU and wiring loom that controls the different sensors and valve or not connected at all ?

    1. If i recall correctly, I omit those sensors and took the BGP oil pressure sender and took a 42 Draft Design oil pressure relocation kit off the passenger side of the head and put the sender there. I extended the lines from the wiring harness to meet up with the newly relocated oil pressure sender (behind the passenger headlight). Coming up on 3 years without issue. Good luck!

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